Electrification in the home is a process where all the household machines directly powered by fossil fuels such as gas or coal are replaced with more efficient electric alternatives, often powered by renewables.

Electric alternatives use a fraction of the energy compared to older fossil fuel technologies such as gas water heaters or cookers. For example, conventional air conditioning uses up to three times more energy than a heat pump. So even if the electricity used is not from a clean source, the new electric machine uses less energy to do the same job and produces less carbon dioxide.

A passive house is an energy-efficient home that uses fundamental design principles to help cool and heat itself. It does this through positioning and aspect — for example, the careful placement of windows to trap heat in the winter while shielding occupants from the high summer sun. It is also airtight and well insulated, so the home requires very little active heating or cooling. Typically, it includes a solar PV system, and passive solar gains are used as an internal source of heat or cooling, often supported by a heat pump or other efficient electrical systems. A passive house will also often include a mechanical ventilation system to keep the building envelope airtight while providing clean air circulation.

A microgrid is a localized power system that generates and distributes electricity for a specific area, such as a university campus, hospital, or neighborhood. It can connect to the main utility grid or disconnect to operate independently in “island mode” during outages, ensuring a continuous and reliable power supply in an emergency. Microgrids use various energy sources, including solar, wind, and generators, and often incorporate battery storage to manage power efficiently. The U.S. military uses portable microgrids during mobilized combat missions and has set a goal to implement a microgrid at every installation by 2035. This shift toward microgrid technology is driven by the need for greater energy resilience against grid failures, cyberattacks, and the impacts of climate change.

No, electrification in America would create millions of jobs, with estimates ranging from millions of new positions annually in the clean energy sector to tens of millions over the next decade under rapid decarbonization efforts. Over the last nine years, manufacturers have announced 194,500 created and retained U.S. EV-related jobs. By comparison, the coal industry—which has been steadily declining over the past fifty years—currently employs only 42,600 workers, making up just about 0.02% of the 168 million–strong U.S. civilian labor force.

Electric Homes More Expensive?

The process of electrification simply means that when it comes time to replace our old gas water heaters, we instead upgrade to a modern electric water heater, which uses more efficient on-demand hot-water technology. For entirely new homes, it’s actually cheaper to build all-electric homes, since providing and connecting gas infrastructure is more expensive than not having one in the first place. It’s also cheaper for both contractors and, in the long term, for residents if solar PV is installed instead of a gas system—renewable energy is cheaper to purchase than fossil fuel energy.

“All-Electric Technology Is Ugly and Doesn’t Work”

A common misconception about electric homes is that they are architecturally unattractive new builds. In reality, any type of property can be retrofitted to become an all-electric home, and many new ones are architecturally stunning and award-winning. These misconceptions largely stem from early adopters of the technology. While some early electric stoves were less responsive than gas, modern induction stoves allow for more precise temperature control and are now preferred by many homeowners. The same goes for heat pumps—not only has the technology improved, but so has the knowledge and experience of contractors and electricians installing it.

Electrification Will Destroy Jobs in the Fossil Fuel Industry

Electrification employs many of the same engineers and electricians who currently build and maintain our existing grid system. As the energy infrastructure shifts toward renewables, we’ll still need just as many skilled workers to build, maintain, and innovate. Electrification creates local jobs, with contractors and electricians installing and servicing these newer, safer, and more efficient technologies. Upgrading and modernizing our homes and electrical grid represents a major opportunity for job creation and economic growth, comparable to President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Rural Electrification Act of 1936—one of the key initiatives that helped lift America out of the Great Depression.

Most utilities do not charge to disconnect gas service to your home. However, if the disconnection is technically difficult for the utility, they may apply a nominal fee. If you find the process challenging or the cost unusually high, you can file a complaint with your local Public Utility Commission (PUC). Fees for disconnecting gas often disappear once the PUC becomes involved.

Utility companies often tell consumers that a panel upgrade is necessary to electrify their home. This is not always the case. In reality, 99% of all-electric single-family homes use less than 100A of power at any given time throughout the year, with the most common peak demand around 29 Amps. This means over 70% of panel capacity remains unused. Similarly, over 99% of mixed-fuel single-family homes use less than 100A at all times. For most people, a panel upgrade is unnecessary.

However, upgrading from 100A (the average for American homes built in the last twenty years) to 200A does provide utilities with an additional revenue stream. In the unlikely event that capacity is constrained, homeowners can use load-management technologies, such as circuit splitters, circuit pausers, smart panels, or low-amp equipment, to safely operate multiple appliances—including EV chargers—simultaneously.

If the issue is space—for example, when there are no spare breakers for new appliances such as heat pumps—what’s needed are subpanels, circuit splitters, and smaller breakers. Peninsula Energy has produced a set of guides for electrifying a house on a 100amp panel.

Transparent Pricing and Multiple Quotes

First, get a number of quotes from different installers to understand the price range of your installation—aim for at least six. Make sure the pricing is broken down clearly by line item so you can understand the cost allocation:

PanelsBatteryInverter
Tilting/Installation/Labor

Reputation, Qualifications, and Reviews

Look at multiple reviews of your solar installer on different platforms, such as Yelp and Trustpilot. The NABCEP PV Installation Professional (PVIP) Board Certification is considered the “gold standard” and the most respected certification for solar installers in the U.S. While certifications are not always a legal requirement (state licensing for electricians is more common), the NABCEP PVIP certification is widely recognized by employers and customers as a mark of high quality, expertise, and professionalism.

Make sure you are reviewing recent feedback. You can also check whether your chosen installer has had any complaints lodged with the Better Business Bureau or any court cases brought against them in your state for breach of contract. You can do this by:

BBB.org: Search for the installer’s exact legal name and city (note that the same firm may have multiple listings) and review the “Complaints” and “Reviews” tabs for patterns and how issues were resolved.
State contractor-licensing board: Confirm an active license, bond/insurance, and any disciplinary actions. For example, in California, visit cslb.ca.gov and navigate to Consumers > License Check > Business Name.State or county court records: Search your state or county court’s online portal for civil, breach-of-contract, or small-claims filings under both the company and the owner/principal’s names. For example, for San Francisco County, visit sf.courts.ca.gov, go to the case calendar query section, and enter the installer’s name in a “search by name” query.

Local Installers Are Often Better

A local installer who has been around for over a decade may be a better choice than a larger national company. Larger companies may send an out-of-state team to handle your installation, or subcontract it to another installer. These practices can create issues if there is a fault with your system or if it needs repairs.

It is worth asking your provider:

Do you subcontract out installations, or use your own engineers?
Are you familiar with local building codes, permitting, and utility interconnection procedures?

An established local company often has the advantage of regional knowledge and long-term presence, which can save headaches later.

Good Communication and Long-Term Support

Installation is just the start—you’ll want monitoring, maintenance, and service if something goes wrong. Choose an installer who is responsive and will be around for years. Reddit+1

Ask about:

The software that comes with your system—check if it is well-reviewed. Most modern systems provide a monitoring app that shows electricity generation and alerts you to any issues or faults.
Who handles interconnection with the utility?
Who handles warranties if something fails?
Whether subcontractors are used.

Avoid Red Flags

As a general rule, avoid companies that:

Are not detail-oriented or cannot answer your specific questions.
Are newer and have very few reviews.
Use high-pressure sales tactics (e.g., “sign today for a special government rebate” or “limited-time offer”). Solar United Neighbors+1
Provide very low quotes compared to others, which may indicate lower-quality equipment or hidden costs. Reddit
Provide high quotes without line-item details.Have no local presence or rely solely on subcontractors, which increases the risk of losing service later.

In 2025, the average residential solar panel system in the United States (including equipment and installation) typically costs between $25,000 and $45,000 before incentives, depending on system size, location, and installer rates.

system size vs. cost (before incentives):
- Small homes (4–6 kW): Approximately $11,000 to $20,000.
- Medium homes (7–10 kW): Around $18,000 to $30,000.
- Large homes (11–15 kW): Around $28,000 to $45,000.
Federal or Local tax credit: A 30% federal solar tax credit can substantially reduce the total cost. Although a number of IRA tax credits run out in 2025. There are still many at the State level.
Other factors: The final price is influenced by factors such as location, roof condition, and whether you add battery storage.
SOLAR CALCULATOR LINK

Most solar PV systems pay for themselves within the first five to ten years, with the added benefit that even if your utility company no longer offers a one-to-one net metering agreement, the adoption of batteries allows many households to reduce or even eliminate their utility bills by running their home from the battery instead of the grid during periods when electricity is most expensive.

Multiple solar financing options exist: You can pay for solar panels upfront, take out a loan, lease a system, enter into a Power Purchase Agreement (PPA), or even install a system yourself.

Cash is king, but loans are popular: Paying cash offers the greatest long-term savings, but solar loans make solar more accessible by reducing upfront costs while still allowing you to own your system.
Leases and PPAs offer a no-money-down approach: These options can work well for homeowners who can’t afford upfront costs or don’t qualify for loans, but note that you won’t own the system or receive tax credits.
Incentives can significantly reduce costs: The federal solar tax credit (ITC), along with various state and local incentives, can substantially lower the total cost of going solar.

Thorough research is essential: Compare offers from multiple lenders and installers, and make sure you fully understand contract terms before signing.

Deciding on the best environmentally friendly heating system for your home requires a holistic assessment of your property, current build and insulation, budget, available space, and environmental goals.

Before evaluating specific systems, determine your home’s needs and current build:

Insulation First: The most cost-effective and greenest initial step is to maximize your home's insulation and airtightness. A well-insulated home requires less energy to heat, making any system more efficient.
Property Type and Space: Some systems, like ground source heat pumps (GSHPs), require significant outdoor land for ground loops, while air source heat pumps (ASHPs) only need a compact outdoor unit. Biomass boilers require space for the boiler unit and fuel storage (e.g., wood pellets).
Existing System and Infrastructure: Check whether your current radiators and pipework are compatible. Heat pumps work best with larger radiators or underfloor heating systems designed for lower water temperatures.
Geographic Location and Climate: Solar thermal systems rely on adequate sunlight, making them more effective in sunnier regions. Heat pumps remain efficient even in cold UK temperatures (down to -15°C), but ground source systems offer more consistent year-round performance regardless of air temperature.

What Are the Different Types of Heating Systems Available?

Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP):
Air source heat pumps extract heat from the outside air (even in cold temperatures) and transfer it into your home. They are a highly energy-efficient, low-carbon solution for many properties, especially when replacing an old gas or oil boiler. ASHPs can also operate in cooling mode, removing the need for a separate air-conditioning system. They can be installed ductless as mini-splits, saving space and reducing energy lost through ducts. Typically, they use less than one-third of the energy required by traditional heating or cooling systems.

Electric Heating (with a Renewable Energy Supplier):
While standard electric resistance heating is less efficient than heat pumps, if the electricity is sourced from a 100% renewable supplier (e.g., solar or wind power), it becomes a very low-carbon option. Infrared electric heating is also highly energy-efficient.

Solar Heating Solutions:
Solar thermal systems use solar collectors to absorb sunlight and heat water for domestic use. They can provide a significant portion of a home's hot water needs and have minimal environmental impact during operation.

Ground Source Heat Pumps (GSHP):
These systems are extremely efficient, using the stable temperature of the earth to provide heat. They have a very high Coefficient of Performance (COP), meaning that for every unit of electricity used, up to five units of heat are produced. Since they produce no direct greenhouse gas emissions, they can make a substantial positive impact on your carbon footprint. However, GSHPs require significant outdoor space and are the most expensive to install.

Most Environmentally Friendly Systems

The most environmentally friendly heating systems are those powered by renewable energy sources and technologies that do not burn fossil fuels on-site — specifically ground source and air source heat pumps.

System Environmental Impact Upfront Cost (approx.) Running Costs Best For Air Source Heat Pump Very low direct emissions (zero if run on renewable electricity). $4,000–$12,000 Often cheaper than gas/oil in well-insulated homes. Most homes with some outdoor space and good insulation. Ground Source Heat Pump Lowest direct emissions; highly efficient (COP up to 5). $18,000–$35,000+ Very low, often the cheapest to run. Homes with large gardens or land suitable for ground loops. Biomass Boiler Carbon neutral (if fuel is sourced sustainably). $5,000–$16,000 Cost-effective if you have access to cheap fuel. Larger homes or rural areas with a reliable supply of wood pellets/chips. Solar Thermal Zero emissions during operation. $3,000–$5,000 Very low, uses free sunlight. Supplementing hot water in homes with south-facing, unshaded roofs. Electric Combi Boiler Zero direct emissions; overall impact depends on electricity source. $3,000–$4,500 High, as electricity is generally more expensive than gas per unit of energy. Smaller homes or apartments where other options aren’t feasible.

To determine how many mini-splits you need, first assess your home's layout to decide on the number of indoor air handlers (one per zone/room needed), and then calculate the required BTUs (British Thermal Units) for each zone to select an appropriately sized system. You generally do not need units in areas like kitchens or bathrooms.

1. Determine the Number of Indoor Air Handlers (Zones)

Each indoor unit (air handler/mini-split) creates an independent temperature zone. You will generally need one unit for:

Enclosed rooms with doors: Bedrooms, offices, and some basements that are sealed off from general airflow.
Large, open-concept areas: Living/dining combos may be served by a single, powerful unit if air circulates freely, but sometimes require two strategically placed units to ensure even temperature distribution.
Rooms with specific temperature needs: Spaces that need different temperatures than adjacent areas, such as a home gym or sunroom with high heat gain.

2. Calculate the BTU Requirement for Each Zone

The capacity of mini-splits is measured in BTUs.

An undersized unit will run constantly and fail to keep the room comfortable.
An oversized unit will “short-cycle,” leading to poor dehumidification and wasted energy.

Basic Calculation (Rule of Thumb):

Multiply the room's square footage by 20–25 BTUs per square foot for a standard room with 8-foot ceilings.
Example: A 300 sq. ft. living room needs approximately 6,000–7,500 BTUs.

3. Select the Right System Configuration

Single-Zone System: Best for a single room or isolated area (one outdoor unit connected to one indoor unit).
Multi-Zone System: Ideal for multiple rooms (one outdoor condenser connected to several indoor air handlers, each with independent controls).

For a multi-zone system, sum the adjusted BTUs for all desired indoor units to determine the required capacity of the single outdoor unit. There are many online BTU calculators that can help you estimate your needs.

4. Professional Consultation

While the steps above provide a strong estimate, the most accurate method is to consult with a qualified HVAC professional who can perform a detailed Manual J load calculation for your home. This professional assessment accounts for all unique aspects of your home's construction and climate, ensuring optimal system sizing and efficiency.

However, it is important to perform some calculations yourself to avoid potential upselling and ensure the system meets your actual needs.

Most reputable contractors should be happy to help you realize your construction or retrofit requirements, even if they are not specialized or LEED-certified. However, to find local contractors in the U.S. who specialize in green building, the most effective method is to use dedicated online directories and leverage certifications from recognized green building organizations.

Eco Build Directory

This directory specifically lists sustainable home builders by state and allows filtering by certification type (LEED Certified, Passive House, Energy Star Partner, etc.) and specialty (Net-Zero Homes, Green Renovations, etc.).

Green Communities

The GreenCommunities website has a "Green Contractors" section, which serves as a resource for finding certified green building professionals.

Intengine

Intengine is the world's number one sustainability directory. This platform provides a comprehensive directory of certified providers and allows users to find socially and environmentally responsible suppliers and construction companies.

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